#55 Spring 2018

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Brands such as Y/Project, Telfar and Vetements have found new ways to pick up where the designers of the 90s left off. Aided by strategies borrowed from art, they are transforming the fashion system from within and widening its boundaries beyond recognition. Fashion is succeeding precisely where art is not, wresting autonomy out of enormous political and social shifts. Is it now art’s turn to learn from fashion? 

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Views Vienna

Rachel Whiteread at Belvedere 21 by Kimberly Bradley, Bruno Gironcoli at mumok and Galerie Krinzinger by Maximilian Geymüller, Lindsay Lawson at Lisa Kandlhofer and Ydessa Hendeles at Kunsthalle Wien by Gianna Prein

Views Berlin

Arthur Jafa at Julia Stoschek Collection and "Left Performance Histories" at NGBK by Alexander Scrimgeour, Ellen Cantor at Galerie Isabella Bortolozzi by Barbara Piwowarska, Guy Bourdin at Museum für Fotografie by Robert Schulte

Views Frankfurt

Jean-Michel Basquiat at Schirn, Rubens at Städel Museum and "I am here to learn" at Frankfurter Kunstverein by Klaus Speidel

Views Zurich

Charles Atlas at Migros Museum and Ramaya Tegegne at Galerie Maria Bernheim by Julia Moritz and a preview on "Fashion Drive" at Kunsthaus Zürich by Rita Vitorelli

Views London

"Counter Investigations: Forensic Architecture" at ICA and Laurie Simmons at Amanda Wilkinson Gallery by Billie Muraben, Sondra Perry at Serpentine Sackler Gallery by Lorena Muñoz-Alonso

Views New York

Jean Luc Godard at Miguel Abreu Gallery by Felix Bernstein, LaToya Ruby Frazier at Gavin Brown's enterprise by Alison Gingeras, Juan Antonio Olivares at Whitney Museum by Dean Kissick

Views L.A.

Charlemagne Palestine at 365 Mission and Nina Könnemann at House of Gaga by Keith J. Varadi, Hannah Hoffman Gallery by Andrew Berardini, Hayden Dunham by Arshy Azizi

Seduction

by Krist Gruijthuijsen, Hanna Putz, Juan Pablo Larraín, Nhu Duong, Romina Farkas

Postcard

from Sydney by Rare Candy

Images contributed

By Yves Saint Laurent, pelican avenue, Torbjørn Rødland, Johannes Schweiger, Puppies Puppies

Curator's Key

Kaat Debo, director of the Antwerp Fashion Museum MoMu on Dan Flavin's Untitled (to the real Dan Hill) (1978)

Focus

"Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009" at Palais Galliera in Paris by Marina Faust

The End is Night

New York Fashion Week. By Natasha Stagg

Q/A Andra Dumitrascu

What is the new luxury in fashion?

Artist's Favourites

by Jakob Lena Knebl

Q/A Youths in Balaclava

What is the meaning of style?

Shopping

Colette and the end of the concept store. By Dominikus Müller

"The Tears Dress" by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí

A pioneer in uniting the avant garde of art with fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli created The Tears Dress with Salvador Dalí in 1938. The celebrated dress offered a violent, inventive glamour that foretold the horrors to come. By Ella Plevin

Exhibition Histories

"Fast Forward – Fashion in the Media of 90s" (1999). A conversation between curator Christian Muhr and artist Wally Salner

Media

Micro-Influencing by Natasha Stagg

Portrait Bernadette Corporation

In spite of making a vast amount of work ranging from sleek art installations in gallery spaces and collectively authored books to fashion and photography, the New York collective Bernadette Corporation has managed to stay just out of focus. By Ella Plevin

Q/A Jack Self

Why is there no criticism in fashion?

Essay: The origins of the fashion show

The runway show is still the centrepiece of the fashion world. But it is also, just as when it began in the 19th century, a symptom of its time and a response to the acceleration of life, only the speeds are not the same. By Matthew Linde

Portrait Lukas Duwenhögger

Lukas Duwenhögger makes paintings that play with the tangled connections between the visible and invisible, desire and distance, transparency and opacity – all at the same time. By Dominikus Müller

Essay: Fashion as peer pressure

How fashion makes us consent to the absurdity of consensus reality; or, why being wrong together is more interesting than being right alone. By Rob Horning

Interview Sylvie Fleury

Making an artwork out of a Louis Vuitton bag seems obvious today, but Sylvie Fleury has been doing collaborations with luxury fashion brands since before they were cool. She uses muscle cars, eyeshadow and runways as material, reminding us of the absurd nature of fashion, and perhaps, of art itself. By Dean Kissick

Talk: "Knowing the Now" with Emily Segal and Alessandro Bava

The contemporary has ousted the timeless in art today. Fashion, by contrast, has always operated in a different, tighter bond with the timely, anticipating the next season, channeling the zeitgeist.

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